There is a spot, at 1,420 metres, where the road between Ampezzo and Sauris opens onto the meadows of Passo Pura and the Carnic Alps seem to come a little closer. This is where Rifugio Monte Pura stands, for those who walk, for those who cycle, and for those who simply want to stop for a while.

There are six rooms, thirteen beds in all, furnished simply and with the warmth of a mountain refuge. Each has its own bathroom, and some have a balcony or terrace overlooking the landscape. The morning begins with a buffet breakfast, sweet and savoury, with homemade cakes, bread and local specialities. And if the plan is a long hike, you can take a picnic basket along the trails.

Then theres the kitchen, which is something of the heart of it all. Its led by Tiziana, who brings here a lifetimes experience from the family trattoria in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, and from the historic Barbe Blas. Every dish tells the story of Friuli: frico with polenta, first courses with game ragù and wild herbs, and Frikkelle, a creation all our own with the flavour of frico in a crispy version. You eat beside the fogolâr, the traditional Friulian hearth, or on the panoramic terrace. And for passers-by, theres always a sandwich made on the spot.

All around, the mountains. Trails lead from the refuge to Monte Tinisa, Monte Pura and Nauleni, and a short distance away you reach the balcony over Carnia, with views of the Lumiei and Tagliamento valleys. On the other side, Lake Sauris mirrors the mountains like a looking glass.

And yes, your four-legged friends are welcome too.